Fruity Knitting Interview

This time a short blogpost. Because.. You can see and hear me talking about my lace-knitting on the latest episode of Fruity Knitting! 

Many, many thanks to Andrew and Andrea for (finally) getting me in front of a camera.

Thanks also to my dad, for filming me knitting and riding my bike.

You can find us here: You Tube or on their website Fruity Knitting. There you can find links to my patterns as well, featured in this episode. 

Deze keer een korte blogpost want je kunt me namelijk zien en horen in de nieuwste aflevering van Fruity Knitting!
Heel veel dank gaat naar Andrew en Andrea om me, na al die jaren zonder, eindelijk voor de camera te krijgen. *engels talig!*

En naar mijn vader voor het filmen dat ik aan het breien ben en op mijn motor te zien ben!

YouTube of de Fruity Knitting Website met verwijzingen naar de shawls die je in deze aflevering ziet.

Veel kijkplezier

Outlander shawl... 1 year later.

This is all about the Outlander Lace shawl. Previous posts were written (READ) and (READ) 

 
1 year ago, I casted on for the Shetland Stars Shawl. I would make the Square version, and at about the same time 2 testknitters made the rectangle version. 

 I took my knitting everywhere. I wanted people to know you cán take your lace outside and just add a few (or a lot of) rows. I had casted on on July 8th and I was planning to finish by the end of the year. Little did I know...

The plan was to knit the edge, then pick up loops and knit the border. Decreases every second row and the signature Star right at the start. Then immediately after, the centre. But I still had to do calculations to work out the number of repeats to make it long enough for the border to fit.

A special moment, working on the border with the Outlander episode on the TV. 

I'm not at home, I'm at a B&B in Limburg. Quite memorable. 

Commissioned knits came along, Roe,  Sterling, Solana and I presented my first Knit-a-Long: Reach. An exhibition started about knitting in a local city nearby and in December I got a very important (in my eyes) commissioned knit. I was to knit an impression of an apron that was on display. It was very fine, mine need not be that delicate.
There was a catch, it needed to be done by April 4th and it was already January when I got the approval.
So, by the end of December, only 1664m were knitted. 

January 8th. Working a few rows before I go to work. Always room for 1 more... 

And nothing would get done any sooner than April 1st. I felt guilty. I didn't work on the Rectangle version, and now my deadline passed with only 2/5 worked.  The edge + border and most of the centre. 
Quickly casting on for the second edge + border. 

Always a great thing. Watching your work spread out a bit. I knew how it needed to look, I wanted to see if it actually was correct. I was happy and sad at the same time. Happy with how far I got, sad that I was not even close to finishing. I wasn't even half way! 

Claire is wearing the fine lace shawl in episodes 9 and 12. This is 12.

SPECIAL THANKS to Belinda and Cor for making this videocap possible.

People started asking, when will it be done?? I was knitting as fast as I could, but now things started happening at home. I couldn't concentrate. The second deadline was February/March but I wasn't close. I "wasn't" a lot.
Doing calculations (edge + border was ~720m and the edge + border + centre was 1664m at first), I came to the conclusion it would take up to 4km!!!! WHAT? It's not that I didn't have the yarn... I didn't want to keep people waiting.
May: 

June 13. One set of Edge + Border to go.

July 8. Putting stitches on hold. Knitting is done! 1 year of knitting (a lót!)
Now, I'm scared (again). Grafting will be okay, but will my calculations be correct???
It isn't until July 17 that I have enought courage and time to graft everything. 

There it is! Unblocked: 120cm x 110cm. You can see which borders are grafted to the sides of the centre panel. A stitch has a V shape. A shape that is longer than that it's wide.
So, when you want to put a V onto a <, you'll run short very quick. That's why you need more.

READY?? 
First; a shot for comparison. On the bottom the picture Terry Dresbach send me via Twitter:

And by all means, I'm NO Claire. So I let my mannequin do all the work:

Pattern name: The Shetland Stars Square Shawl
Designer: (Probably a Sutherland Sister)  Shetland knitter/spinner and Kantwerk / A Passion For Lace.
Pattern contains: 15 pages.
4 pages with information, tips and instructions
8 pages with charts
3 pages with pictures.
Yarn: 4000m or 4374 y 1/16NM Jamieson & Smith Gossamer 1ply in natural white. (I advise to buy yarn on a cone, so you can knit the borders/centre in 1 piece. It's not in their shop, but you can ask for a cone when you order)Needle: 2mm / US0 circulars 40cm / 16” and 80/100cm or 32”/ 40” or use straight needles 40cm / 16”.
Size: 180 x 180cm or 6ft x 6ft blocked, it might bounce back after blocking a bit.
Also: 8 stitch markers, T-pins, blocking kit or frame, waste yarn for Life Lines, towel, suitable detergent, tapestry needle.
All rows are knit. Please read the instructions before you start knitting.

Because the pattern is already released and everyone was SO kind, I take the opportunity here (also) to THANK YOU!
The design has had a heart warming respons. The picture got 39 shares on Facebook, over 450 likes on Instagram and I even was a contender in the Hot Right now... on Ravelry (Spot 8 of the Top 20!)

I will take this shawl with me to The Shetland Wool Week. I will have a showcase in the Jamieson & Smith store in Lerwick on Tuesday Sept 27th (That's NOT me in the picture! It's Ms. Mary Kay)

I hope you will find the same pleasure in knitting this historic piece, as I have. It might take you longer, or you could be quicker. It is TOTALLY worth it. 

The Shetland Stars Shawl (Rectangle!) (aka The Outlander Shawl).

In een vorige post (DEZE) vertelde ik over het ontstaan van een shawl ontwerp. Dat is inmiddels een half jaar geleden. Er is hard gewerkt door mijn test-breisters. DANK JE WEL!
Ik ben zelf ook nog druk bezig met de vierkante versie, vooruitgang is helaas even erg langzaam. Daar komt verandering in, spoedig!

In a previous post (THIS one), I told you all about the development of a shawl design. That was 6 months ago. My testknitters have been working very hard. THANK YOU!!!
 I'm still working on the square version, progress is slow. Soon, it will pick up speed again! 

De rode shawl is gebreid door DominiqueBe (haar naam op Ravelry). 

The red shawl has been made by DominiqueBe (her Ravelry name). 

Om er voor te zorgen dat meer mensen dit ontwerp kunnen maken, heb ik gekozen om 2 versies te schrijven. Niet iedereen wil een héle grote vierkante shawl (of heeft daar de tijd voor) en is blij met een rechthoekige shawl. Daarom ben ik erg blij dat NU al de rechthoekige shawl als patroon beschikbaar is!

To make sure that more people can knit this design, I've chosen to write 2 files. Not everyone wants a large square shawl (or has the time to make it). They are happy with a rectangle version. And that's why I'm glad I can offer just that, right NOW!

De "Fawn" shawl is gebreid door seaglass (haar naam op Ravelry). 

The "Fawn" shawl has been made by seaglass (her Ravelry name). 

De prachtige sterren zie je terug in de rand en zul je zeker goed zichtbaar kunnen dragen. Het is toch een patroon wat niet vaak voorkomt in kanten shawls en ontwerpen. 

The gorgeous stars are worked in the border and are very visible during wearing. It is a pattern you hardly see in lace knitted items. 

Je breit eerst de border, dan meteen het midden. Dan brei je nog een border en die zet je vast aan het laatste stuk van het midden. Zodra dat allemaal aan elkaar vast zit, dan brei je de eenvoudige rand er omheen. 

 First you knit the border, then you work the centre pattern. Then, you work another border and graft that onto the other end of the centre. To close it nicely, you work an edging all around.

Het wordt niettemin best nog een lange shawl. Het hangt van je persoonlijke brei-hand af, maar het kan varieëren van 190cm - 218cm lengte! (of hoe hard je durft te blocken!)
Best lekker om te dragen en toch luchtig.

Nevertheless it will be rather a large shawl. It depends on your personal knitting style but it could run up from 34" to even 38"! (Or how fierce you dare to block it!)
That is a lot to wrap yourself into!

Pattern: The Shetland Stars Shawl (formerly known as: The Outlander shawl)
Design:  A Passion For Lace... (Only in English so far, Nederlandse vertaling komt er aan!)
Shape:   Rectangle minimum approx: 34" x 75" (red) or 38" x 86" (Fawn)
Yarn:    (red) Midara Micro 1600m/100gr (Estonian fine lace yarn) approx. 2400y or 2200m.
              (fawn) Jamieson & Smith Gossamer 1600m/100gr (Shetland) approx. 2400y or 2200m
Needle: 2mm or US0 (circular if prefered: 16" for main knitting and 32" for the edge (mainly to
              hold all picked up loops). Straight needles will do fine also (carbon, bamboo, metal,
              anything you want...)

The pattern has 4 charts, NO written rows, and explains how to work the edge (wrap & turn).

There is an option to join in on the knit-a-long (not a mystery this time) to help each other to keep it going until the thing  shawl is done...
Join the "A Passion For Lace... " group on Ravelry.

So... Enjoy!!!

Outlander....

April 16:

Someone in my friends list on Ravelry send me a message that there is a mention of a lace shawl in the Jamieson & Smith group. They are trying to find out which shawl it is and if it is possible to recreate it.

April 16:
I read the thread and am instantly interested. I wrote:

I’ve seen a similar lace shawl in the movie A Royal Affair. Couldn’t make it out either. After watching the credits I tried to find pictures of the costume designers collection, but it wasn’t there.

This was my first step into a very large and interesting project. I didn't know if any of my experience would be needed, but I stuck my nose in anyway.

After some searching we could make out the centre pattern and did some 'cut & paste' to get something going.
In the meantime I tried to find out more about the show. "Outlander". Low and behold, it was on the tv in Belgium, Friday evening.

April 19:
Watching the show. I see a LOT of tweed. It's gorgeous. Sorry to say the story is quite 'slow'. I haven't read the book(s), but I do love the surroundings and scenes shot in Scotland.
First swatch is made:

April 21:
Together with Laura and DominiqueBe we look at swatches and compare them with the screen shot.

Pretty close, right?  Second swatch made: 

April 29: 
Now what? Am I diving in head first and make an entire (new) shawl? Or do I help with developing?
Ordered some yarn, Mohair- merino and thought that if I started with the centre pattern, the rest would come later..

May 3: 
Searching the Shetland Museum and Archives website, I find a shawl that has a similar centre pattern:

Because we couldn't find a good screenshot of the entire shawl, when the camera zooms out, the lace gets 'lost'... , this was all we had to go on.

Laura tried to get a better view of the shawl. The episode didn't air in Belgium, due to the summer break.
A friend, Belinda, helped out too with vidcaps. They tried to freeze the frame and save that image. But it was only enough to see a pointy edge.

May 6: 
Made another swatch. It didn't go well in the end, but it looked better already.
I thought it was a bit tight. The birdseyes in the top were NOT like in the screenshot.

May 10: 
The yarn came in and I started right away. Calculations were close enough to get things going.

You can see by the size of my hand, this wasn't "Delicate" lace at all. I put it aside and took some grey yarn with a finer gauge and started over.
I was a bit hesitant. Should I get involved in such a big project?

May 22: 

I got as far as with the mohair.. This was much finer, but I wasn't happy with the colour... I thought that a Shetland shawl should be made in Shetland yarn.

June 10: 
Belinda has a better screen shot. Now I can see the size of the shawl. She's wearing it double and it still is sheer.

KathyMary suggests (as others have in other threads) to make contact with the costume department.

I'm hesitant, someone else has tried it. And didn't hear back.

June 19:

Another vidcap by Belinda reveals after close inspection there is a faint zigzag in the border. I stop knitting on the grey shawl...

Also June 19:
Tweeted Terry Dresbach (the costume designer for the Outlander Series) and asked about the shawl.

The first tweet got lost but the second: 

(2/2) Can you tell us anything of a source/knitter/pattern? It's so rare to see #finelace in a costume series. Thank you 

Terry replied!

it's an antique piece I found.

Then me:

may I be as bold and ask you if you still have it?  we, a knitting group on Ravelry, are trying to recreate it. 

Terry:

we do. Seriously? That's mad. I can give you a pic of the lace but not right away [...]

Me:

that would be brilliant! thank you. No rush #relief.

Oh my! It is happening!

June 24:

Terry:

here you go!

Oh no!!! This is SOOOO unexpected. It's GORGEOUS! Look at those stars... The arches..
This is a whole other ball game!
I thanked Terry and told her this was all we needed.
All doubts melted away. This was an awesome chance to get some Serious Lace done. I'm in!

So... Swatching began AGAIN. Making whole new charts. Calculations.. This is big.
I even found a picture of some ladies posing with a similar shawl. The border is much wider, but the stars are the same. And you have a good indication of size too.

 Source: Shetland Museum and Archives

Conclusion 1: the shawl is an antique. That means it is handspun. That means that I will have to use very fine yarn. Gossamer at least to make the size similar. I can spin, but not as fine as the Shetland ladies back in the days.
Conclusion 2: Not everyone will make a shawl this size! I will have to make alterations in the pattern so one can choose to knit a rectangle shawl with the same patterns / parts. This way, it's available for more people.

June 25:
Ella Gordon from the Jamieson & Smith Woolbrokers informed us about the ladies in the picture being the "Sutherlands". And came up with a photo from later in life:



Later that day, Dominique send me some pictures from the Museum of a shawl with stars she saw on display. The coin dropped and I viewed back my archive and yes: I've seen the same shawl.
There are similar components, but spacing is different. But it never hurts to have a good close up.

July 6:
Charting is an ongoing process. Even when swatching I made minor adjustments.
But... it looked pretty close to the original.

 First: the edge. A little tweek here and there.

The star. It needed just a bit more room. And the upside down flower needed some more work.

I had decided earlier that (especially) an antique shawl from Shetland, should be recreated with original Shetland yarn. The only option was: 1/16NM Gossamer (1ply) Natural Jamieson & Smith yarn.
I'm working with 2mm needles (US0). I mentioned before that the original is handspun, so this is as close as I can get.
Calculations give me for the squared version over 500.000 stitches. The rectangle will have approx. 210.000 stitches. I can't tell you how large it will be, but my prediction will be around 6+ feet square.

July 8:
Casted on with the gossamer 1ply and worked the first border. My dear test knitter Sue is working on the rectangle version. She's getting rid of all bugs and makes a perfect example for you to decide whether or not to knit the square or the rectangle.

 The yarn came in on 2 cones. It's approx. 20 balls of yarn. That should be plenty.

I don't know when the pattern will be available. But somewhere later this year is the goal. Think November or December. It will be a paid pattern (not free). Credit will be given, where credit is due. (As I've done here, please notify me if I have forgotten something/someone)

And you will be able to find it under a new name: The Shetland Star Shawl.
The ORIGINAL shawl has been purchased by Terry and is not specifically designed for the Outlander series.
(copyright and other stuff...)

Ready for a cut and paste preview???

So... if you don't hear from me for a while: I'm busy...